|Naturally, I didn't think to take "before" pictures of the drain plug clearance,
but here's a view of the crossmember after the engine has been pulled. The drain
plug was pretty close to the center of the dark spot on the crossmember. When
drained, in addition to spreading out across the crossmember, the oil
also ran into the hole and all over the inside of the crossmember - a real mess.
|Nothing spectacular here - the front sump pickup after the original oil pan
|The new rear sump pickup. This did come with a new bolt for the 3rd main bearing
cap, which also serves as a mounting point for the pickup tube.
|The rear sump oil pan. This is a Ford Performance M-6675-A50 289/302 SBF Rear Sump Oil Pan.
The dip stick that comes with the pan assumes there is an access hole in the block, which
there is not. Hence I stuck with the front dip stick, but had to trim it to fit in the
smaller front sump of the new oil pan. Assuming oil fills, splashes, and flows between
the two sumps, hopefully this will still give a decent reading.
|The truck had been using a bit of oil, so I had checked engine compression before
dissassembly. Cylinders 2 and 4 held a much lower pressure than the others, so I
pulled the head on the one side to take a look. The valves looked good as did the
head gasket. However, the gaps for the rings on cylinder 4 in particular had
lined up to the point where there was actually a minor "ridge" on the cylinder wall
where the ring gap was. Both pistons showed excess "gunk" on the top.
|I pulled the #2 and #4 pistons and used a ball-hone to clean
up the cylinder walls. Everything else looked good, so I just adjusted the position
of the ring gaps and re-installed the pistons (taking a minor risk I kept the existing
bearings), put on a new head gasket and buttoned things back up.