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Step one - find an available fuse. I'm not running the fuel pump directly from the fuse
box, but am installing a relay. Hence, from the fuse box I only need a couple amps
from the "run" circuit. I picked up this fuse "tap" from AutoZone. It plugs into any
fuse position, provides a mounting socket for the fuse that it replaces, and then provides
a position for a second fuse and wire to the new circuit. I tapped into the fuse for the
dash gauges. |
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I mounted the relay for the fuel pump in the battery box under the floor board. |
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I don't really like where I mounted the fuel pump and may end up moving it. However, this
was the easiest and only location around the gas tank that had sufficient space to
mount the fuel pump vertically (without constructing some custom mount). This is located
behind the fuel tank, in front of the rear bumper and towing bracket - so susceptible to
rear-end collision. I really need to construct a better mounting bracket. |
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The original fuel line was copper hard line. I changed to braided stainless steel 6AN hose
and fittings. Coming from the rear of the truck directly to the carb also freed up some
clutter around the front of the engine. |
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Here's a rear view of the installed fuel pump. Although this works, it is extremely noisy
(a common complaint with these fuel pumps. When I relocate this, I'll need to add some
rubber isolation to quiet it down. |
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I don't have pictures of the process, but I relocated the fuel pump to inside the passenger
side frame rail, just in front of the gas tank. In an attempt to quiet the pump a bit, I used
an old engine mount - mounting the pump to the steel backing plate of the engine mount, and
and then rubber portion of the engine mount to the frame. In re-routing the fuel line from the
gas tank to the filter I found that it had been kinked when I initially mounted it in front
of the rear bumper - so that problem got fixed as well. This works pretty good. The exhaust
noise pretty much hides the noise from the fuel pump - all is well. |