Rear Sump Oil Pan

The first thing I did when I received the truck was to change the engine oil - and the second problem was found (the first was the fuel filler leak) - I could not drain the oil. The Ford 302 on the truck had the "normal" front sump oil pan. The drain plug cleared the Crown Vic cross member by maybe 1/8" and was pretty much dead center front-to-back over the 4" wide cross member. I had to remove the engine mount nuts and jack the engine up to get clearance under the drain plug. And, as one would expect, when removed, the oil ran out onto the cross member and spread out to become a 2' wide "oil fall". I contemplated drilling and tapping a drain hole in the front of the oil plan, but figured I'd need to pull the pan to do that, so I might as well change to a rear-sump pickup/pan. The engine had to be pulled to gain access.
Naturally, I didn't think to take "before" pictures of the drain plug clearance, but here's a view of the crossmember after the engine has been pulled. The drain plug was pretty close to the center of the dark spot on the crossmember. When drained, in addition to spreading out across the crossmember, the oil also ran into the hole and all over the inside of the crossmember - a real mess.
Nothing spectacular here - the front sump pickup after the original oil pan was removed.
The new rear sump pickup. This did come with a new bolt for the 3rd main bearing cap, which also serves as a mounting point for the pickup tube.
The rear sump oil pan. This is a Ford Performance M-6675-A50 289/302 SBF Rear Sump Oil Pan. The dip stick that comes with the pan assumes there is an access hole in the block, which there is not. Hence I stuck with the front dip stick, but had to trim it to fit in the smaller front sump of the new oil pan. Assuming oil fills, splashes, and flows between the two sumps, hopefully this will still give a decent reading.
The truck had been using a bit of oil, so I had checked engine compression before dissassembly. Cylinders 2 and 4 held a much lower pressure than the others, so I pulled the head on the one side to take a look. The valves looked good as did the head gasket. However, the gaps for the rings on cylinder 4 in particular had lined up to the point where there was actually a minor "ridge" on the cylinder wall where the ring gap was. Both pistons showed excess "gunk" on the top.
I pulled the #2 and #4 pistons and used a ball-hone to clean up the cylinder walls. Everything else looked good, so I just adjusted the position of the ring gaps and re-installed the pistons (taking a minor risk I kept the existing bearings), put on a new head gasket and buttoned things back up.