Comparing our cars to our competitors

  1. Resin. Check to see what kind of resin the fiberglass body is made of. Our fiberglass body is made of superior DCPD resin than the general purpose resin or even the vinylester resin that a lot of our competition is using. This DCPD resin produces a straighter body that will resist shrinkage and warpage far more than the others.
  2. Thickness. Check the thickness of the body. Our body is 1/8 - 3/16 inches thick depending on the area of the body. Some sections of the body need to be thicker than other sections.
  3. Labor. How many hours of body work does it take to get the body ready to paint? Do the doors, hood and trunk fit the body in their locations or do you have to grind and or fill to make them fit? Our body requires 40 hours or less labor to be ready to paint. Most kits require close to 200 hours of labor to be ready to paint. Since body shops charge between $30.00 and $50.00 dollars per hour, this can and will become very expensive. Compare the fit and finish of our bodies to any manufacturer, even the gelcoated in color cars.
  4. Chassis Strength. Check the strength of the frame. Will it twist and flex when driven over potholes, speed bumps, going in and out of driveways or under the hard driving of competition? Our backbone chassis along with just a few other backbone (semi-monocot) chassis are all far superior to all the ladder frame cars. Our ladder frame has four each 2 x 3 rectangle tube frame rails which gives comparable if not more torsional strength than the two round tube frame rails and definitely more beaming strength. Remember, there are more stress cracks in fiberglass bodied cars due to flexing frames than due to bad fiberglass.
  5. Frame Treatment. Our frames are painted with a chassis black paint. We also offer a powder coating at an additional cost.
  6. Safety. Does the car have any kind of side protection below the door? If so, is it just the outside lower frame rail or does it have another bar just below the door opening? Some kits do not have any side frame rails. Remember how low the lower frame rail really is. Does the car have any side protection in the doors? If so, are they attached with heavy duty hinges, hinge mounting brackets, latches and strikers? Do they attach directly to the frame or to the fiberglass? Remember, most replica cars do not have any protection in the doors and if they do the hinges and latches are not strong enough to hold against impact. Our backbone chassis comes with door bars, heavy duty hinges and latches secured directly to the frame. For an additional cost of $499.00 dollars you may add these door bars, hinges and latches to our ladder frame. Does the fuel tank have any protection or is it protruding beyond the frame? Our backbone and ladder frames have a metal perimeter protecting the fuel tank.
  7. Interior space. Our backbone chassis and our ladder frame have enough interior space for people over 6'.
  8. Suspension. Our front suspension geometry works better for handling and or everyday driving than other manufacturers. We achieved more anti-squat by changing our rear suspension locating mounts on the frame which also lowers the roll center instead of at the axle which raises the roll center.
  9. Hood and trunk hinges. Both our frames come with hidden hood and trunk hinges that do not attach to the outside body skin. Our backbone chassis hood hinges mount directly to the frame. Our ladder frames hood hinges mount to a header bar bolted in between the inner fenders. Both cars trunk hinges mount to a metal support bolted to the inner trunk liner. One that has metal plates glassed to the outside body skin will eventually draw a line in your body around the metal.
  10. Engine and transmission choices. Both our backbone chassis and our ladder frames accept a wide choice of engine and transmission combinations with bolt on motor mounts instead of weld on.
  11. Wiring harness. Our kits come with a wiring harness. You don't have to try and pull out a donor car wiring harness and stuff it into your kit's Body.
  12. Quality of gauges. Our car comes with high quality Stewart Warner Gauges, not the cheaper quality gauges on the market or the gauges you have to pull out of your donor car.
  13. Total cost comparison. Be sure to look closely at your total finished cost. Not only do we offer a far superior chassis and body but our total finished cost is very competitive. Remember, you have the option to add or delete parts to custom build your own kit.

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